Hi all,
I have just set up my 200litre tank,(filled on monday 28th april) I`m cycling it at the moment, but would like some advice and some handy hints and tips!
Its not my first time at fish keeping, but really want to do things uber properly this time, I am now living somewhere where i intend not to move from for a long while! I must admit to bein a bit of a neat freak, so like things just so, but would like to know the limitations, some algae growth I guess is a good sign!
At present the tank is filtered with a Fluval 205, lower basket is carbon bag and polywool, mid level is ammonia remover 2 bags, top basket biomax.
Is this the correct placement? the water is beautifully clear, the readings are still high, obviously, but my understanding of the nitrogen cycle is the "good bacteria" require ammonia to get started, my question is, if the tank is fishless, how will the bacteria get to sufficient safe levels without fish waste etc to feed on? If I just leave well alone, will the cycle happen naturally?
I have treated the initial filling of water with aqua safe, and added cycle to help things along so far.
Any tips will be gratefully receive xxxx

first welcome to the forum.

i personaly would remove the amonia remover bags from the filter as its going to interfear with the cycle.

i have to go out now but can explain more later unless my good friends here beat me to it
(fry lover,telboy)

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What have you been testing for so far?

Does what i have written so far make sense?

Other's may have differing opinions?

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i think fry lover has coverd most issues in more detale than i would have .

a few other question's i have is what fish are you planning to keep after the cycle? a 205 says its able to filter upto a 200 litre tank and im sure it will cope with a small fish stocking level on the other hand it may struggle if you have large fish or a heavy fish load.


regards Rob.

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Hey again,
thanks so much for everyones advice, I see your point regrding the carbon and the ammonia remover, should I remove these and replace all the baskets with biomax? or just leave them empty?
Its early days I know, but here are the results from water I checked last night
PH 7.6
Ammonia 2.0
Nitrite 5.0
Nitrate 5.0
The ammonia reading has come down from its initial reading of 8.0!! the nitrite has remained the same, but I guess that will peak after approx 10 days? then its the nitrite that will be high, thats an indication that the bacteria have converted the ammonia to nitrite, am I right in this line of thinking? I dont know, AAAHHHHH! after about a month the nitrite will convert to nitrate, to prevent high levels building up, partial water changes, once a week? am I on the right lines here? or way off?
Now, do I carry out partial water changes when I see the nitrate level peak, or do them once a week anyway while its cycling? and do I just treat the replaced water with aqua safe only, or add more cycle/stress zyme aswell?
I am concerned about the filtration I have at present, ie, if its man enough for the job! but my budget is extremely limited, so a larger filter just isnt possible. I do have a biolife filter that I had in my beginner tank, but dont really want to use that because it takes up so much room in the tank.
But if it will help, and keep my fish healthy until I have money to beef up my filtration I can do that.
Once the water quality is at its optimum,and I`ve introduced some fish, could someone give me their maintenance routine, weekly and monthly? I guess toxins will ac***ilate at the bottom levels of the tank, as will the general ditritus from the fish and plants. Is it best to once weekly do a partial water change with a gravel syphon, should I remove the rocks and some plants to get good access to the gravel, or only do this once a month to limit the disturbance to the fish? I found it quite bothersome doing water changes last time I had the tank, I know its part of the fishkeeping process, but it always seemed so messy, and I was never happy with cleanliness of the gravel, is it ok to have some "muck" in the gravel, does the bacteria live there aswell or just in the filter?
I did toy with installing an ugf, but I got so many conflicting reports about them, I thought it best to leave it, as I was going to have living plants, I was told they wouldnt do so well, and the filter can clog up. I`ll be so bummed if I made the wrong decision, I dont think I could bear to strip the tank down now to install one! do they keep the gravel cleaner, despite their shortcomings, or can you achieve just as good a result by using a gravel syphon and regular cleaning? your thoughts would be helpful on this one
Another query, ( so many questions, so little time!!! Sorry!) I have the intake of the filter placed in the left hand side of the tank, about 4" in from the side, on the right hand side 8" in is the outlet nozzle, watching the flow as it exits the filter, and watching any bits floating around the intake never seems strong enough to suck in any debris that might be passing, is this normal, I`ve checked the filter and all is working correctly. Should I play around with the positioning of the outlet nozzle to eliminate any dead spots in the flow, or put a powerhead in the tank to enhance the flow around the tank so any debris will be directed toward the intake nozzle?
I know I`m probably fussing, but I want my fish to have a happy well balanced life. In answer to the what fish to get, I`m not sure to be honest, I would like something a bit different, not the usual mollies and etc, I love the cichlids, but not sure if they need special requirements, ph levels etc?
advice and pics if poss would be fab!

If I can work out how to send pics, I`ll attach some piccies of my tank, I`m also technically challenged, so any help with this also!

xxx

WOW WHERE DO I START!


i think im dun in

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just something i recently found out for myself.

i use to think that the filter was ment to suck and trap the fish dirts.when infact its better if they just filter water!
by fitting a sponge over the out pipe this will prevent dirts entering the filter and only let water through ,it also prevents outlet strainer clogging and it has a greater surface area. this sponge(PRE-FILTER) can be removed and cleaned very easy . plant leaves and un eaten food rotting in a canister filter will only add to the poluting of your tank. its much better to remove the fish dirts/plant matter/un eaten food through syphoning!

happy reasearching Robert.

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Thanks SO MUCH Robert, you are my hero! I`m sorry for the long list of questions, I really appreciate the fact you took time to read and reply. That link is very helpful, my understanding with how the filter works, if the water is not suffering any peaks in the bad toxins, and all is tickity boo, the cannister can be primarily for the culturing of the good bacteria, so the course strainer pads first stage, a secondary mechanical substance (pre-filter or poly wool?) in the lower basket to ensure waste free water passes over the biomax, the only time it would be necessary to use carbon or ammonia remover would be if the water quality test results were in the high range. Otherwise the water should look after itself, with weekly partial water changes and gravel cleaning.
The literature doesnt really make that clear, I always thought you used carbon and the other media all the time regardless of the results from water testing.

Thanks again for your help in these initial stages, I know if I do things right now, it will pay dividends in the long run.

thanks again xxxx

thes ponge pre filter should be enough to keep the biomedia clear.and most people use the filter wool as the final stage to polish the water before its returned to the tank.

i would say keep things simple and they will work better!

dont add chemicals here there and everywhere! its not needed and they are blooming expencive!


fish keeping should be relaxing

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eh-up Folks!!

Couple of Fry Lover tips here

--> If you are concerned that your filter may be "borderline" in terms of running the tank (water) effectively, then it's important to be cautious with your stocking (under stock slightly) and very good on water changes. My personal practice is to recommend a minimum of 25% water change per week. If this slips and you end up doing it 10-14 days later, go for 30-35%. I actually average about 40% every 7-8 days in my Malawi and Parrot tanks, and a bit less for my planted community (30% every 7-10 days).

You mention that it was a bit bothersome doing water changes, well i cant exactly say i love it or look forward to it, but i do take pride in it, knowing that my effort is reaping rewards for my fish, i am a massive fan of promoting a thorough water change routine, with correctly "conditioned" tap water (i.e. treated for chlorine and chloramine if required and heavy metals) i have seen the difference in my fish with larger and more frequent water changes (more breeding, better colouration, less disease, more active behaviour)

Thankfully Webmaster (aka the Mighty Admin) allows us to recommend other forums, and as far as i know post links.

This is an excellent thread on cycling written by someone well respected in the fish keeping community for his experience and knowledge, dont be put off by the size of the thread, focus on reading the initial parts and then if you have time browse the rest of the thread. You can't go wrong with it.

http://www.fishforums.net/content/Ne...hless-Cycling/


This seems an interesting debate on maintenance although i havent read the entire thread.

http://www.fishforums.net/content/Ne...y-Maintenance/

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