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Home      Reply		Viewed: 582 -- Replies: 23
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Posted	parasite problems
08-12-2005 18:24 by thelastdon	hello commrads am in desprate need of help, i have a parasite problem, but not sure of the best way to tackle it. before i go any futher here are the symtoms. some fish are darting like they've had a good kick to the dorsal fin and flicking. ive resanatly given the gravel a good clean out and i think ive upset all the crap that was under it. water quality seems ok again. so am i right in thinking its a parasite problem. i ve bought waterlifes sterazin. It says its a five day course i'm suppose to add the correct dosage on days 1, 3, 6, 8 and 10. now, am i suppose to do a water change before i add each dose. if so how much water do i change. pls help i hate to see my fish unhappy
08-12-2005 20:48 by Linda Chenapa	Are you sure that it is a parasite problem? Have you added anything new to the tank recently? If I were you, and your fish show no other signs of illness, I would add some Melafix. I know it is not a cure all but I find that it can work wonders.
08-12-2005 21:34 by thelastdon	ooh never heard of it whats that stuff?
08-12-2005 22:58 by JK	Tea tree oil, (Melaleuca) from API May be worth a try, at least its not full of nasty chemicals .
08-12-2005 23:29 by Danny Boy	don youve not heard of melafix? the people here love the stuff!!
09-12-2005 13:16 by thelastdon	sorry dannyboy i havnt, never had a problem before i suppose that could be a good thing, ive only ever lost 2 fish to poor health, a ghost knife and a ??? cant remember what it was called. well just call it dead now. (poor joke i know ive been out and bought a 5 in 1 tester since my mate that tested the water said he had no nitrate test left, (never told me this before) its a nitrate problem. Hes told me thebest way to tackle is too do reguler 20% water changes for the next few days but i think am going to go with what you guys or girls tell me. any advice would be most helpfull.
09-12-2005 15:22 by richardy	try using kent marines garlic extreme. i use this daily in their food and have not had any problems since using it despite having loads of whitespot before hand
09-12-2005 20:31 by MC	Any online aquatic store will give you a good explanaytion of Melafix and its newer cousin Pimafix so I wony bother exlaining here but will definately sing praises for the effectiveness (some will disagree). Both are primarily for bacteriological/fungal infections and Pimafix also deals with internal bacteria, additionally can be used together to greater effect They are not however, any good for parasitic infections and in such cases my vote goes to Waterlife's Sterazin
09-12-2005 23:26 by janette	danny boy melafix does this clear severe whitespot janette
09-12-2005 23:45 by JK	No good for white spot Janette. I would stick with the Protozin. Have you double checked the dosage? Too low and it will not work, too high and it will stress them even more and reduce your oxygen levels further. Did you allow for substrate etc when working out the dosage?
09-12-2005 23:50 by janette	yeh done all that im at a loose end, my cherry barbs are gasping for air ive turned up air done everything
09-12-2005 23:54 by janette	i contacted waterlife they told me that i live in a hard water area to up the dose to 18ml when it should only be 12 for a 180lt tank?
09-12-2005 23:57 by JK	I'm trying to work out how much of your problem is actually the spot. Are the cherry's absolutely covered with spots about the size of a salt grain?, or just a few on each? Are their fins all clamped? If you sniff the water is it a pleasant earthy sort of smell,or unpleasant?
10-12-2005 00:03 by janette	ive been treating them now for 2 weeks my nitrite levels are 0, ive done a 50% water change in between treatments cleaned gravel, up temp to 28c only been in this game for 2 months got to master it though:
10-12-2005 00:07 by janette	its an earthy smell not a bad smell abosoolutely covered and gasping for air if i turn the air up any more they would be wizzing about
10-12-2005 00:08 by JK	Sorry to repeat myself, but are the spots still clearly on the fish?
10-12-2005 00:09 by janette	jk ,what do you think about tonic salt?
10-12-2005 00:10 by janette	yeh they are more like talc powder
10-12-2005 00:11 by janette	they are coverd iam in to my second week of this
10-12-2005 00:26 by JK	Ok here's what I think, I'm concerned that over the two week period the dose has built up to a level which is now causing more harm than good. You said earlier that before you redosed you did a 50 percent change and put your carbon back. Was this the same carbon or a new one? If it was one that had already been used it could well of been next to useless. This would then lead to a part double dose. I'm also surprised that waterlife told you to increase the dose by such a large amount. I would never go more than a little over.
10-12-2005 09:53 by Linda Chenapa	Extract from a web site. It is only the free-swimming stage of the parasite that is susceptible to treatment; neither the trophonts under the epithelium or the tomont cysts can be killed. So any treatment plan has to be carried out over a period of time in order to kill the emerging parasites. This in turn depends on temperature. At 7oC the life cycle will take six weeks, whereas at 25oC it will be complete in a week. An alternative treatment is prolonged salt immersion at 1-2 ppt (parts per thousand), i.e. 1-2 grams per litre Water should be monitored during the treatment course in case there is any loss of filter activity. It is also believed that fish that survive an attack of Ich have an increased immunity against future attacks
10-12-2005 09:57 by Linda Chenapa	and another, quite like this one myself. Pet fish can be treated with any of the chemicals discussed above to correct "Ich" infections. A number of commercial preparations are available from pet stores which contain one or several of these agents. Temperature manipulation is also an effective way to control "Ich" in home aquariums. This technique is often not practical for commercial fish farms, but is advantageous for the hobbyist because expensive products do not have to be purchased and it is safer for some of the delicate species which are popular in community tanks. Water temperature can be gradually raised to 90°F, maintained there for 24 hours, and then gradually dropped to 70°F for 48 hours. The infective juveniles (tomites) will be killed while the water temperature is at 90°. When the temperature is dropped the adult organisms will fall off the fish and begin to reproduce. As the young begin to emerge 48 hours later, the temperature is again raised to 90°F, causing them to die. Repeating this process continuously (24 hours at 90° F followed by 48 hours at 70° F) for two weeks should control the disease. Cleaning the tank every second day will help remove cysts before they rupture and therefore help to prevent completion of the life cycle. If you decide to use temperature to control "Ich" in your home aquarium be sure that the type of fish in your tank can tolerate the temperature extremes involved.
10-12-2005 11:09 by JK	I've just checked a bulk pack of protozin for the dose, and assuming its the same on the smaller packs, it looks likely that you have been treating for 180 gallons, not litres. Standard dose 5ml for 150 litres
10-12-2005 21:56 by thelastdon	i ve got some melafix that stuff smells great started puttin a bit on before i go clubing lets see if it helps the health of my fish now

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