Algae & Phosphate
Can here you all cringe, right then he is my opinion, phosphate first a 0.02 or below test reading means I have no phosphates to worry about: WRONG a 0.02 or below reading is not the same as no increase in production, it just means the rate of absorption into the phosphate cycle has remained balanced.
Algae micro or macro is present in everyone system (live rock/live sand on coral even the tank surface and in lots of forms) you should enable the system to dump phosphates BEFORE they can get used by algae; if 5ppm of PO4 is produced, and 5ppm uptake by algae you wont see any change from last weeks reading would you, as this only measures 'excess' that builds up in the closed water cycle, its only when some catastrophe or the total absorption capacity is reached do you notice a rise in phosphate levels, easiest way to be sure of not introducing phosphate is a properly working RO unit for the water change and to use a phosphate sponge, like phosguard, or rowaphos. Along with your usual water changes (that’s another discussion looming), good skimming, (if you use one). Frozen foods can contain high phosphate levels, salt mixes, fresh foods, check it first. Also be aware that in addition to the daily production of PO4 by the life in the system, the phosphates introduced either by new livestock which also include live rock, and any possible die-off occurring in a system need to also be removed.
'Clean up crews' (especially snails) merely recycle the algae, releasing the PO4 in their poop, to begin the process anew.
Proper tank cleanliness is the message for tight control of phosphate.
Lighting and algae: (setting the record straight):
Light does not grow algae (as was pointed out is correct) but Light is a very powerful catalyst though and with warm lighting (low Kelvin degree range) and nutrients detritus in the water, tons of algae will grow. (Dieback algae (may or if caused by an enhanced or changed lighting scheme) would release phosphate back into the water) Cutting the lighting may reduce algae growth but does not deal with the root of the problem: the nutrients and detritus. Sure, changing the bulbs when needed helps, but only because the spectrum then changes and is not as warm. Keeping a high K degree spectrum and light will act less in the growth of algae, I agree even if small amounts of nutrients are present. Lighting itself is not the cause though as I explained. The real cause is the nutrients and detritus.
Just to add to minalo1 post, phosphate is not a bad thing...yes we all know excess nitrate, phosphate and iron all increase algae growth. But without phosphates we would not be here, i.e. ATP, ADP+Pi, it the formula for energy. And don't be conned into buying a test kit for it, unless is a proper scientfic phosphate test kit. There are two types of phosphate Organic and you guessed it inorganic(Pi and sometimes called orthophosphates), So infact you may have a very high organic phosphate but a very low inorganic phosphate, so you may still have an algae problem. I hate how local fishkeeping shops(LFS) have used this phosphate rubbish to con people into buying test kits and other expensive gear, how about we all stop focusing on phosphates and focus on the main nitrogen cycle. Cause what i have seen is more people concerned about phosphate than ammonia lol. We take the first stages of the nitrogen cycle for granted. Yes and before you say i don't want you to buy an RO unit, this is for the more experience fishkeeper, discus, marines etc, this is an important piece of kit to.