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Home      Reply		Viewed: 350 -- Replies: 16
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Posted	beer chiller
07-07-2006 11:33 by sturio	is it pretty strait forward to convert beer chillers or is there a site that shows how?
07-07-2006 11:43 by ryanroddis	Sturio.... beer chillers? Enlighten me !!!! Haven't a clue what ya on about!!!
07-07-2006 11:57 by trik	very easy done. use a small pump to pump water through the chiller you wil need a habistat cool control to switch the chiller on wen your tank warms up. very simple if you want the site i will put it up for you.
07-07-2006 12:21 by D.R.	Beer chillers was for my benefit. Yeah go ahead post the site please Thanks
07-07-2006 12:26 by trik	http://www.petsparade.co.uk/reptiles/reptile-thermostats/?p=408 hope this works.
07-07-2006 13:35 by sturio	thnx trik is there anythin you dont know ?lol
07-07-2006 14:48 by trik	im still learning,
07-07-2006 14:51 by trik	the only other thing you will need is a contactor the habistat only switches 300w which is 1.25amps and beer chillers are around 10amps.
07-07-2006 20:12 by seawolf	hi i take it this beer cooler is been used to cool an aquarium ?
07-07-2006 20:19 by sturio	yup
07-07-2006 20:19 by sturio	well will be
07-07-2006 20:22 by seawolf	i was just wondering as if you had a cold water close to your tank you could make marine engine style heat exchanger
07-07-2006 22:58 by sturio	eh? tell me more
08-07-2006 12:03 by seawolf	sorry sturio for taking to long to get back to you. he goes, a marine heat exchanger is a container inside another container with the iner having pipes running throught it, the idear is simple a marine engine needs to be cooled but is in an inclosed space ,that is where the cold sea water comes in it can't be pumped strait through an engine as it will corode it and cause it to fail so instead you run fresh water. this is where the heat exchanger plays its role ,lets for arguments say the sea water moves through the container from left to right as it does this so passes through the tubes and comes out the other side (making this the cooling part) meanwhile fresh water comes in at the top runs over the pipes containing the salt water and out the bottom so cooling the heated fresh water andall the while neither fresh or salt make contact, this is normaly done under pressure by pumps. why the cold water supply you asked earlier , well we will reverce the process we mentioned earlier this time by using the avaliable cold water supply which is already under pressure (so no need of a pump ) first we need the supply which has to be used regulary so the feed from your storage tank in the loft would be the best place as it supplies all your water needs in the house so it does matter which tap gets turned on. next 2 T-junction taps have to be instaled in the pipe but keep the original pipe in place ,next run a pipe from each of these taps to just obove your tank sump where you fit taps. this is where the heat exchanger bit works, you join the to taps together with plastic hose ( food grade) which will sit down in the sump water so making cold fresh next to hot salt but never mixing ( the more pipe in sump the greater exposure time for the exchange. the idea is simple every time a tap is turned on in the house cold water runs through the pipe through the sump and to what ever tap taking the heat from the tank water with it,the reason for leaving the origanal pipe work in place is in the winter or when not needed the water can be re-directed the origanal way so not to pass through the sump. this system will never over cool the tank because we if some one runs a cold bath your tank heater will compansate for the loss. THIS IS ONLY AN IDEA AND HAVE NEVER TRIED IT MY SELF BUT THE THEORY MAKES IT POSSIBLE , BUT BE WARNED THIS WAY WILL SAVE ELECTRIC BUT YOU RISK A BUST FRESH WATER PIPE IN YOUR SUMP WHICH WILL KILL YOUR MARINE FISH, AND IF YOU GO AWAY IN THE SUMMER AND LEAVE THE HOUSE EMPTY THIS SYSTEM RELIES ON PEOPLE TURNING TAPS ON TO WORK. THE FIRST OUTLAY TO SET THIS UP IF NOT A PLUMBER WILL BE EXPENSIVE BUT AFTER THAT THE ONLY OUT LAY WILL BE REPLACING THE PLASTIC PIPE ,( AND NO ELECTRIC BILLS ) HAPPY BUILDING
08-07-2006 20:34 by sturio	thnx seawolf have printed this off n will have a look at building it will try on a smaller tank first,with no fish n monitor it for a while..will let ya know when i done it
08-07-2006 20:53 by seawolf	THATS OK let me know if it works
08-07-2006 21:35 by seawolf	sturio can i just add a point about beer chillers i'm not totally sure how they work but i take it the fluid runs through the unit - can i make a sudjestion, if you plumb this unit to your main/sump tank supply and it is pumped around if there is a burst pipe in the system you will lose what water is in that tank ,and possible livestock as well as a good flood. to limit possible flooding and loss of life have a small ring of plastic pipe run from the chiller in the sump, back out again to a pump and on to the chiller making a complete enclosed ring, in this ring of pipe place FRESH water. this method is simlar to the heat exchange mentioned earlier and if that pipe bursts there will only be a couple of litres of water to flood. WHY FRESH NOT SALT IN THE PIPES BECAUSE THE SALT WILL CORODE THE CHILLER UNIT AND WILL NOT LAST AS LONG SO ADDING TO YOUR EXPENCE, HOPE THIS HELPS CARL

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