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Viewed: 242 -- Replies: 14 | ||||||||
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| Posted | ritteria anemone |
| 06-11-2007 09:24 by tomdoc |
... a slight problem i feel.. my anemone was doing great until now.. on the tips of the tenticals its like cotton wool and small dot- patches on the mouth area with like cotton wool stuff .. it still deflates and infaltaes as normal and parameters are fine |
| 06-11-2007 09:29 by JOHANSWAN |
i get some problem from time to time and discovered it happens when my iodine level gets to high soi keepmy iodine low but it also happens when any of levels like no3/o2/cl get too high or too low so keep an eye on water parameters and anemone will recover a waited 3 weeks for my gabbage coral to recover |
| 06-11-2007 10:25 by tomdoc |
sorry .. what is NO3/CL ?
will a water change help this |
| 06-11-2007 12:38 by trik |
N03 Nitrate
N02 Nitrite NH3/NH4 Ammonia PO4 Phosphates KH Karbonate Hardness CL Calcium o2 Disolved oxygen ORP Redox Potential HTH Richard |
| 06-11-2007 15:36 by tomdoc |
well my nitrate stands at 5 or less so im not sure what is casuing this .. phostpate is 0
calcium i do not ADD nor test for as no hard corals |
| 07-11-2007 12:23 by Alan |
For christ sake it is probably your calcium and alkalinity that are at fault then test them asap.
Anything less than levels comparable to the natural marine environment can easily kill an anemone. Alkalinity should be at least 2.9meq/l and calcium at least 380 ppm both preferably higher in order to buffer the ph more effectively. I also suspect over a 24 hour period your ph fluctuates badly again also fatal for anemone. As a basic rule all the test suggested by Trik less redox and oxygen plus ph should be considered the minimum number of tests to be carried out at least weekly in order to monitor and manage trends in depleting minerals. |
| 07-11-2007 16:24 by tomdoc |
my ph .. is 8.4-- i have never tested for alkalinty or calcium i do not have hard corals .. i no many people who have anemones and do not test for this either .. they simply test for the normals inc photphate |
| 07-11-2007 16:29 by Alan |
Then they are being foolhardy.
Alkalinity has to be maintained in order to keep the ph stable 24 hours a day. Equally calcium helps with this. Also whilst soft corals are not heavily demanding in terms of required calcium they still need it at natural sea water levels to prevent their skeletons from slowly breaking down. To me normals are at the very least for any marine setup whether fish only or reef are: nitrate nitrite ph phosphate Alkalinity Calcium These are the bare minimum. |
| 07-11-2007 16:50 by trik |
As Alan says.
Also the other thing to test is MG Magnesium, if you adjust this first it normally brings other prams into order, ie Alk PH and Calcium, there is a usfull link i will try and find for you. Found it, if you put all your known prams in and the salt and addatives you use, it will help you out and give correct measures to bring it up to NSW. http://reef.diesyst.com/ HTH Richard |
| 08-11-2007 02:36 by Jessica |
07-11-2007
16:24 by tomdoc my ph .. is 8.4-- i have never tested for alkalinty or calcium i do not have hard corals .. i no many people who have anemones and do not test for this either .. they simply test for the normals inc photphate Sorry but why are you asking advice if your not gonna take it and instead argue with it?   |
| 08-11-2007 10:34 by Alan |
Trik I totally agree magnesium is very important to test for it is something I don't test for though because the alk and calc buffers I use contain magnesium as well and I have previously mapped the trends on my magnesium levels and know they stay around the 1250ppm mark.
tomdoc magnesium is something you also need to test for as depleted magnesium will make it impossible to maintain good calcium and alk levels. I suffered a very low magnesium at one point and it resulted in a system crash as alk and calc could not be maintained my soft corals basically started to dissolve!!! It was one of my early mistakes. |
| 08-11-2007 11:25 by tomdoc |
im sorry to say this Alan but i no loads of people who do not test for any of that and have ad anemones for 2 or more years .. i feel you approach for testing is somthing which should be done in the ideal world. marine fish forum .. is a much more releaxed forum you all take this way to seriously im sure yourself alan have a very nice tank and have all the cons and electrics to keep a marine tank at its best but not everyone does this many poeple have a simple tank which is stable and does not have all of mod cons. im not arguing this im stating a point that some people on this forum fill newbies and intermiteate poeple with advanced aquarium keeping gargon ! which is unnecessary if you wish to keep anemones ect in the best waters then please go ahead you may wish to do that. but you are clearly looking for the advanced side of marine keeping which i feel you need to understand that not everyone is!. Anemones can be kept happy with the basic parameters and my not live for 4 years were as an advanced aquarium maybe longer .. but that is the owners choice and money preference . |
| 08-11-2007 12:01 by Alan |
tomdoc I assure you my tank is very much bargain basement with no fancy computers and the like everything is done manually and it is a lot of work. And no my tank is no master piece I get what I can afford and what I keep is kept in the best water I can manage, a few people on here have seen my marine tank and basic is an understatement my tank is more of an experiment in which I am trialing various filtration methods should I ever be able to afford the modest marine tank I really want.
The testing that I am spouting about is very basic stuff calcium and alkalinity are vital components of sea water to maintain the health of corals and inverts, when depleted corals even soft corals do not do as well as they should and may decline if the depletion is very bad. If I was going to advocate advanced stuff which is great if you can afford it you would be opting for a calcium reactor controlled by a computer and various other gizmos like automatic top up systems and computer controlled kalkwasser to up the carbonate hardness whilst causing phosphate to precipitate out. I would however recommend using the balling method for maintaining calcium and alk even on a soft coral tank this is very basic and simple to use it involves using 2 solutions in equal measure one boosts Alk the other boosts calc at levels which are appropriately proportionate to one another. You would be amased at the consumption rate of calcium and carbonates from coralline algae it is comparable to stony corals and if you do not have much in the way of coralline algae growth I suspect your carbonate hardness is low as the stuff can be a plague in set ups with correctly buffered alk and calc hence the need for sea urchins as clean up crew as they consume coralline algae. I implore you to check you calc and alk, chances are the anemone in your tank could be more than 50 years old and would have been collected from the wild it is quite possible in fact that it is older than this, size is not an indicator of age with anemones. The oldest anemone in captivity has been in captivity in excess of 150 years and 2 years for keeping a nem alive is not that difficult anemones can take years to starve to death given correct water quality. You say it may only live 4 year in captivity I would argue thats just about the time it would take to starve to death. |
| 08-11-2007 12:14 by Alan |
Final point - You asked for advice and it has been given, whether or not you accept it is your decision but presumably you didn't know the answer and needed advice hence the post.
Why ask for advice if you question the neccessity of the responses which have been fully justified? |
| 08-11-2007 18:39 by trik |
Thats why i gave in Alan,
ATB |
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